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Colombia – Quality Specifications

The Colombia Coffee Federation classifies green coffee quality by screen size and by the number of defects present in a sample. Green coffee is considered specialty if it scores above 80 points, has zero primary defects, and has no more than five secondary defects in a 500g sample.

Primary defects include full black, full sour, dried cherry/pod, fungus damage, foreign matter, or severe insect damage. Secondary defects include partial black, partial sour, parchment, floaters, immature/unripe, withered, shell, broken/chipped/cut, hull/husk, and slight insect damage.

The International Coffee Organization (ICO) maintains the following screen size classifications for Colombian coffee:

Premium: Screen size 18 with tolerance for 5% at screen 14
Supremo: Screen size 17 with tolerance for 5% at screen 14
Extra: Screen size 16 with tolerance for 5% at screen 14
Excelso: Screen size 14 with tolerance for 1.5% at screen 12. At least 50% must be screen 15
Caracol: Screen size 12 with tolerance for up to 10% of flat beans

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Colombia – Coffee Producing Regions

Though Colombia as a coffee origin is known for delivering mild lots, each department’s coffee stands apart from the next with varied flavors attributed generally to the region. This is due to the microclimates created by mountainous terrain, wind patterns, soil composition, average rainfall distribution, the amount of sunlight the area receives, proximity to the Equator, and, of course, differences in varieties and processing techniques. For instance, coffees from the towering and cool mountains of Nariño are associated with a juicy cup, filled with bright acidity and floral aromas, while the southern portion of nearby Huila is thought of as offering coffees ripe with citrus, stone fruit, and a more refined acidity. Both may still be considered “clean and mild” overall, but these coffees grown in relatively close proximity distinguish themselves clearly from one another.
The region with its specific growing conditions and its landscape with steep mountain ranges with vertiginous slopes has also substantial cultural and historical importance that become the symbol of the Colombian way of producing coffee. Recognizing the region’s historical significance, UNESCO designated Colombia’s Coffee Triangle a World Heritage Site.

More than 550,000 Colombian smallholder families – the average Colombian smallholder family owns between 2 and 5 acres land to cultivate their coffee – are the engine of the Colombian coffee market and are spread out over the several coffee-growing departments (Caldas, Cauca, Cesar, Narino, Meta, Huila, Tolima, Quindio, Risaralda, Antioquia, Valle del Cauca, Cundinamarca, Guajira, Madgalena, Boyaca, Sandander and Norte de Sandander).
The country’s northern regions (e.g. Santa Marta and Santander) with their higher temperatures and lower altitudes, offer full-bodied coffees with less brightness and snap; the central “coffee belt” of Antioquia, Caldas, and Quindio among others, where the bulk of the country’s production lies, produce those easy-drinking types, with soft nuttiness and big sweetness but low acidity. The southwestern departments of Nariño, Cauca, and Huila tend to have higher altitude farms, which comes through in more complex acidity and heightened florality in the profiles.

Although coffee growing takes place in many departments throughout the country, the Coffee Triangle typically refers to three departments: Caldas, Quindio, and Risaralda. The capital cities of these departments are Manizales, Pereira and Armenia. The Coffee Triangle is the heartland of the country and known nationally for its longstanding dedication to the coffee trade, its major cities are strongholds for a century-old tradition of coffee farming able to produce nearly a third of Colombian coffee, some of the world’s best Arabica coffee beans, largely thanks to the region’s optimal altitude, climate and volcanic soil.


Main coffee growing areas:


North:

In the north of Colombia, you’ll find the coffee-producing sub-regions of Santander, Norte de Santander, La Guajira, Magdalena, and Cesar.
This region has only one dry season – December to March – and one wet season – April to November – annually. Coffee blooms in March, just as the wet season approaches, and is harvested in October/November, as it ends.
Within the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range and the Santander and Norte de Santander regions, crops are more exposed to solar radiation. As a result, producers tend to use more shade. These regions produce coffees with less acidity but more body.

Santander
Found in north-central Colombia, Santander’s long agricultural history is intertwined with the history of coffee in the country. Some of the first coffee farms in Colombia were established in this mountainous department, and today the region is still dotted with farms where smallholder producers make use of fresh water sources and rich soil, utilizing integrated forests as shade trees on their properties to deliver classically rich lots with low acidity and flavors of chocolate and nuts. Typica and Shade coffee can be found in large quantities in this area, and a vast majority of these have Rainforest Alliance certification. This area has a lower growing altitude and a micro-climate that is drier.

Sierra Nevada
A mountain range isolated from the Andes, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta reaches an altitude well over 5,000 meters above sea level. Along the northern coast of the country, most of the coffee farmers in this area are part of either the Kogui or Arhuaco native tribes that use naturally organic methods. Coffees with less acidity but more body, often nutty with chocolate notes.

Central North and Central South:

Coffees here tend to produce that typical Colombian coffee taste – sweet coffees with a hint of panela (raw sugar, or caramel) and medium-high body.
In the central north and central south zones of Colombia lie the regions of South of Antioquia, Boyacá, Caldas, Chocó, Risaralda, Quindío, North of Valle del Cauca, Cundinamarca, and North of Tolima.
Antioquia is the second-biggest producing region in Colombia, and Tolima the third, making these two zones a large and well-known area. According to Juan Carlos, 263,000 producers grow coffee on 492,000 ha. However, most of these are in the Central North region: the Central South zone is home to just 28,500 producers.
The two regions have two dry seasons and two wet seasons every year: it’s dry from December to February and June to September; it’s wet March to May and September to November. This leads to two harvest seasons.
In the Central North zone, they have a main harvest season from October to December, at the end of the second wet season. They have a secondary harvest during May and June, however, when the first wet season ends.
The Central South zone has similar harvest periods: May to June and October to November. However, it doesn’t have a main and secondary harvest. The two periods are equally sizeable.

Caldas‍
Caldas, one of Colombia’s major coffee regions, produces one of the world’s finest Arabica beans. The province is located in the center of the country and is part of the famous “Coffee Triangle.” The climate is warm and humid throughout much of the year. The average annual temperature ranges from 13°C to 24°C (55°F to 75°F). Because of its proximity to the Equator, Caldas has no large temperature fluctuations during the year.
Part of Colombia’s coffee axis, or eje cafetero, along with Risaralda and Quindío, Caldas is a hub of coffee activity in the country. The region’s rolling landscape is defined by slopes dotted with coffee, with near-constant misty cloud cover protecting the crops from excess sun. Coffees from Caldas are typically known for their cup profile of milk chocolate, brown sugar, and berries, embodying a sweet take on classic Colombian Mild flavors.

Risaralda‍
Risaralda Province is south of Caldas and part of the “Coffee Triangle.” The region consists of clay and volcanic soils. Clay is common in the western part of the region, while volcanic soils are found in the eastern parts. These soils make Risaralda Coffee taste more acidic than other Another factor that affects the taste of Risaralda Coffee is its altitude. Coffee plants grow better at higher altitudes. As a result, Risaralda Coffee has more intense flavors than other coffees from Colombia.
Another part of Colombia’s eje cafetero, Risaralda is the only deparment of Colombia recognized as a Model Forest by the International Model Forest Network. The region’s soils have their origin in igneous rocks and volcanic ash, benefitting the nearly 20,000 coffee producers who maintain their farms on slopes descending toward the Río Cauca. Coffees from Risaralda often showcase flavors of apple, cocoa, and berries, with fine floral notes in the cup.

Quindio‍
The Quindio Valley is located south of the Risaralda Region and is the third destination of the Colombian Coffee Triangle. Armenia is one of the leading centers of the Colombian coffee in The area is known for its high-quality Arabica beans and for producing some of the country’s best coffee. It became a center of coffee plantations during the 19th century. By the early 20th century, it was one of Colombia’s most important coffee regions.

Antioquia‍
Antioquia is best visited from Medellin. Coffee is produced in all parts of the highlands of the province. An excellent place to start your exploration for coffee in Colombia is the city of Medellin. Antioquia is known for its rich soil and ideal climate that produces high-quality coffee beans. Famous coffees include Antioqueño, which has a lighter body and a sweeter taste than other Colombian coffees. Other favorite coffees include Caturra Pacamara and Caturra Bourbon. Most of Antioquia’s coffee farms are small family-owned operations that grow their crops organically and use sustainable practices.
Located in the northwest corner of Colombia, Antioquia is perhaps Colombia’s most traditional coffee producing department. Farms ranging from small single-producer plots to large scale estates cover the mountains that run through the department, many of which have been modernized with the latest agronomic innovations to their production. Antioquia’s coffees are often characterized by flavors of red fruits and chocolate, delivering rich flavors from the steep slopes of the Western Andes.
Formerly the “wild west” of Colombia for many years, Antioquia was almost entirely settled by gold miners. During the late 19th century, coffee was introduced to the fertile, mountainous borderlands of the department, and Antioquia became Colombia’s most important coffee-producing area. Because of the western and central mountain ranges that crossed the region, it offers ideal growing conditions for coffee.

Cundinamarca‍
The province of Cundinamarca encircles the city of Bogota. Cundinamarca coffee is typically grown at high altitudes (above 2,000 meters above sea level). These high altitudes result in an environment conducive to growing coffee trees. Because the region is so mountainous and hilly, it requires skilled workers working with heavy machinery and equipment. The hilly area is easily accessible from Bogota. Many plantations can be visited on a day trip from Bogota.

South:

This area is closer to the equator, so coffee is grown at higher altitudes where the temperature is lower. At night the temperature lowers, associated with relatively high altitudes, slow how fast the coffee beans ripen. That helps develop the sugar in the beans and give it higher levels of acidity.
It’s a region particularly associated with quality, producing higher quality coffees that are known for their impressive acidity.
The south of Colombia sits closer to the equator, and coffee is grown at higher altitudes. It’s a region particularly associated with quality: coffees are known for their higher acidity and distinctive cup profiles.
What’s more, Nariño, Cauca, and Huila make up what Juan Carlos describes as a new Colombian coffee triangle. Not only are Nariño and Huila huge producers, but they’re also common origins within the specialty industry. In fact, Huila received Denomination of Origin in 2013. The fruit and caramel notes, sweet acidity, and intense aromas characteristic of its coffees led to this official recognition.
Within the South Zone, 211,000 producers grow coffee across 282,000 ha of land. This makes the average farm size much smaller than in other areas of the country.
Like in the North Zone, there is only one wet and one dry season. Juan Carlos tells me that the dry season lasts from June to September, followed by the appearance of coffee blossoms. The rainy season strikes in October and can last until May, but harvest season usually begins in April and continues until June.
This is in contrast to the north of the country, where coffee is harvested in the autumn. With the harvest also extending until December in central Colombia, roasters can offer their customers Colombian coffees for much of the year.

Huila
Found where the Central and Eastern ranges of the Andes mountains meet, the coffee growing areas of Huila center around the city of Pitalito in the south of the department. Split between the northern and southern portions of the region, the region sees two cycles of main and fly crops, with coffee harvested nearly every month of the year. Huila’s coffee have earned their reputation with a usual cup profile featuring stone fruit, citrus, a fine acidity, and pleasant floral tones. Huila is an important coffee producing area in terms of production and quality. People look to this area for good specialty coffee, and many growers have won local and national competitions.

Cauca
Nestled between Nariño, Tolima, and Huila, the department of Cauca is home to more than 90,000 coffee producers who average just over one hectare of coffee production each. The region’s soil is rich with nutrients due to volcanic ash, and the climate includes warm days and cool nights as winds from the high plateaus of the Central Andes blow across the landscape. Coffees from Cauca typically offer confection-like sweetness, with a creamy cup filled with flavors of caramel and sugar cane. Cauca has Indigenous communities and African Colombian communities that use their traditional methods of processing coffee.

Narino
Bordering Ecuador in Colombia’s southwest corner, Nariño is home to the convergence of all three branches of the Colombian Andes. This natural feature creates a multitude of microclimates and provides some of the highest growing elevations of any region in Colombia, resulting in coffees that often present with bright acidity, sweet and juicy flavors, and pronounced floral notes.
This region can be found in the far south area of the country bordering Ecuador in the high peaks of the Andes mountain range. Because it is so close to the Equator, coffee can be grown at very high altitudes in this area. Several farms can be found on mountainsides with altitudes of 2000 meters above sea level.

East:

This is a smaller area (includes the regions of Arauca, Casanare, Meta, and Caquetá) with just 5,500 producers grow coffee on about 10,500 ha of land. Many of these producers have been hard hit by high levels of poverty and social instability, making the growth of coffee somewhat complicated.
In general, there’s a similar climate and results in the cup as the northern region. However, there is also more rainfall and humidity throughout the year.



Further reading: Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia (Unesco.org)

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Colombia – Federacion Nacional de Cafeteros

The founding of the Federacion Nacional de Cafeteros (FNC) in 1927 stands as a pivotal moment in Colombian coffee history, marking the collective efforts of Colombian coffee growers to advocate for their rights and improve the quality of life for coffee-producing families. Each municipality elects its own representative to voice the concerns of the local community, making the FNC one of the largest agricultural NGOs globally.

The marketing division of the FNC is responsible for promoting not only international consumption of Colombian coffee but also, more recently, domestic consumption of specialty-grade Colombian coffees. The iconic Juan Valdez character, created in the 1950s, epitomizes the FNC’s outward-facing advertising efforts, while the proliferation of Juan Valdez cafes within Colombia further reinforces the organization’s mission to stimulate domestic coffee consumption.

Furthermore, the FNC guarantees a minimum purchase price for all coffee produced in Colombia, providing farmers with a degree of financial security. Farmers have the option to sell their coffee to private buyers or tap into specialty markets, or they can sell their coffee to the FNC and receive a stable, albeit somewhat standardized, price throughout the year, influenced by the global commodities market. While this system aims to alleviate market pressures and ensure steady income for the coffee sector, it faces criticism for potentially discouraging the development of super-specialty and microlots.

The scientific arm of the FNC, Cenicafé, focuses on research, development, dissemination, and support across the country. A comprehensive extension service, employing over 1,500 field workers, engages with farmers on various aspects of coffee farming, including soil management, processing techniques, variety selection, disease prevention and treatment, and other agricultural practices. A tax on all coffee exports funds these initiatives, along with other provisions and protections offered by the FNC, irrespective of a producer’s utilization of FNC services, marketplace, or programs.

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Colombia – Processing

While Colombia remains focused on the future, prioritizing sustainable practices and the preservation of water and rain-forests in their farming methods, producers also take pride in preserving their cultural heritage. Many traditional farming techniques unique to Colombia are still diligently followed. Historically, producers favored the fully washed processing method, but as global market competition intensifies, experimentation has become more prevalent. For numerous farmers, there has been a shift in emphasis from commodity to specialty coffee.

Smallholder farmers often spread parchment across flat roofs, known as “elvas,” to dry under the sun. At higher altitude farms where colder climates prevail, poly-tunnels and parabolic beds are utilized to shield the drying process from rain and mist, thereby preventing condensation. In Antioquia, drying drawers are employed; these mobile drying screens are positioned beneath houses or storage sheds, easily pulled out or stowed away to shield cherries from fluctuating weather conditions. Once the dried parchment is hulled to remove the yellow layer covering it, the green coffee almond is revealed. Subsequently, the grain undergoes careful selection and classification based on criteria such as size, weight, color, and physical appearance, with defects taken into account during this process.

With coffee cultivated across various regions of Colombia, consumers can anticipate nuanced flavor profiles depending on the varietal, processing method, and geographic origin. Northern Colombian coffee is often associated with deeper, earthier flavors, a rich body, moderate acidity, and classic tasting notes of nuts and chocolate. Central Colombian coffee tends to be well-balanced and fruity with herbal undertones, while southern Colombian coffee typically offers a smooth, highly sweet profile, medium body, pronounced acidity, and citrus notes.

Colombian coffee can only be exported if it meets the current minimum quality standards, which are rigorously evaluated at all Colombian ports by Almacafé. To qualify for export, green coffee must undergo various assessments of sensory quality, granulometry, and humidity in compliance with Colombian regulations.

Colombia grade beans by screen size, Supremo is a Colombian coffee grade referring to screen size of 17-18. Excelso is instead one step below at 15-16 screen but otherwise identical in composition and flavor. Neither of these refer to cup quality (may in fact come from the same farm and even tree), only bean size.

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Colombia – Growing and Harvesting

Located near the equator, Colombia boasts a diverse landscape that offers ideal conditions for coffee cultivation, with much of the coffee grown under shade. The country encompasses five primary coffee zones, each comprising nineteen sub-regions, benefiting from a mild climate and elevated altitudes, some surpassing 2,000 meters above sea level. The cooler temperatures at higher elevations result in slower cherry ripening, enhancing acidity, cleanliness, and aroma. Although varietals cultivated here typically yield less, they exhibit greater resilience to pests, making high-altitude coffee highly coveted.

Thanks to Colombia’s expansive coffee-growing regions, harvesting occurs year-round, with the main harvest, known as the “main crop” or principal, spanning from October to February, peaking in November and December. A secondary harvest, known as the “fly crop” or Mitaca, follows approximately six months later. This phenomenon is made possible by the north-to-south orientation of the Cordillera Central, the highest branch of the Colombian Andes, coupled with the moist air from both the Pacific and Caribbean oceans. Despite the short duration of each harvest, the commencement of harvesting varies across regions due to Colombia’s diverse topography and countless micro-climates.

Common varietals cultivated include Castillo, Caturra, Maragogype, Tabi, Typica, Bourbon, and Colombia. The Colombia varietal, developed from Caturra and Timor by Cenicafe (the National Coffee Research Centre established by the FNC), was introduced in 1982 to combat leaf rust disease. This productive and disease-resistant varietal is credited with reviving Colombia’s coffee industry in the mid-1980s. Notable coffee-producing regions include Caldas, Risaralda, and Quindio, collectively referred to as the Coffee Triangle, recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites, along with Tolima, Antioquia, Santander, and Cauca.

The majority of producers operate small family-owned farms, many of which are affiliated with the Federacion Nacional de Cafeteros de Colombia (FNC). On average, a Colombian coffee family produces approximately 1,400 kilograms (about 2,360 pounds) of green coffee per year. Achieving this volume necessitates meticulous cherry selection during the collection process, followed by washing and drying to ensure product quality, with defective beans discarded during this phase.

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Colombia – Coffee History

The coffee plant had spread to Colombia by 1790. The oldest written testimony of the presence of coffee in Colombia is attributed to a Jesuit priest, José Gumilla. In his book The Orinoco Illustrated (1730), he registered the presence of coffee in the mission of Saint Teresa of Tabajé, near where the Meta river empties into the Orinoco.

The first coffee crops were planted in the eastern part of the country. In 1808 the first commercial production was registered with 100 green coffee bags (60 kg each) that were exported from the port of Cucuta, near the border with Venezuela. A priest named Francisco Romero is attributed to have been very influential in the propagation of the crop in the northeast region of the country. After hearing the confession of the parishioners of the town of Salazar de la Palmas, he required as penance the cultivation of coffee. Coffee became established in the departments of Santander and North Santander, Cundinamarca, Antioquia, and the historic region of Caldas.

Planted initially in the mountainous northeast, coffee rapidly proliferated throughout Colombia as smallholder family farms recognized its potential as a lucrative source of income. The country’s inaugural coffee export, totaling 2,500 pounds, from the customs office in Cucuta to the United States in 1835, firmly positioned Colombia on the global coffee map. This export trade burgeoned swiftly, propelled by the inauguration of a new railway and the completion of the neighboring Panama Canal.

Despite these early developments, the consolidation of coffee as a Colombian export did not come about until the second half of the 19th century. The great expansion that the world economy underwent at that time allowed Colombian landowners to find attractive opportunities in international markets. Little by little, the United States became the most important consumer of coffee in the world, while Germany and France became the most important markets in Europe. Coffee production was largely monopolized by a handful of major producers operating vast haciendas, where labor was predominantly carried out by peasants, indigenous peoples, and former slaves.

The then large Colombian landowners had already tried to exploit the new opportunities that the expansion of the international markets offered. Between 1850 and 1857 the country experienced a significant increase in tobacco and quinine exports, and thereafter leather and live cattle. These early efforts in the export of agricultural commodities turned out too fragile; they in fact were only reactionary attempts to find the greatest profitability from the high international prices of the time, rather than attempts to create a solid and diversified export platform. The production of these sectors went into a period of decline when the respective bonanza of their international prices terminated, hence a true industrial consolidation was prevented.

With the fall of international prices that registered the transition from the 19th to the 20th century, the profitability of the large estates plummeted. As if this was not enough, the Thousand Days War, which took place during the first years of the new century, also negatively influenced the important landowners, making it impossible for them to maintain their plantations in good conditions; this circumstance summed to the fact that these producers had incurred in large amounts of foreign debt in order to further develop their plantations, which finally ruined them. The coffee estates of Santander and North Santander entered into crisis and the estates of Cundinamarca and Antioquia stalled.

The crisis that affected the large estates brought with it one of the most significant changes of the Colombian coffee industry. Since 1875, the number of small coffee producers had begun to grow in Santander as well as in some regions of Antioquia and in the region referred to as Viejo or Old Caldas. In the first decades of the 20th century a new model to develop coffee exports based on the rural economy had already been consolidated, supported by internal migration and the colonization of new territories in the center and western regions of the country, principally in the departments of Antioquia, Caldas, Valle, and in the northern part of Tolima. Both the expansion of this new coffee model and the crisis that affected the large estates allowed the western regions of Colombia to take the lead in the development of the coffee industry in the country.

This transformation was very favorable for the owners of the small coffee estates that were entering the coffee market. The cultivation of coffee was a very attractive option for local farmers, as it offered the possibility of making permanent and intensive use of the land. Under this productive model of the traditional agriculture, based on the slash and burn method, the land remained unproductive for long periods of time. In contrast, coffee offered the possibility of having an intense agriculture, without major technical requirements and without sacrificing the cultivation of subsistence crops, thus generating the conditions for the expansion of a new coffee culture, dominated by small farms.

Although this new breed of coffee made of country farmers demonstrated a significant capacity to grow at the margin of current international prices, Colombia did not have a relatively important dynamism in the global market of this product. During the period between 1905 and 1935 the coffee industry in Colombia grew dynamically thanks to the vision and long term politics derived from the creation of the Federación Nacional de Cafeteros de Colombia (National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia) in 1927.

The union of local farmers and small producers around the Federation permitted them to confront logistical and commercial difficulties that would not have been possible individually. With time and through the research made at Cenicafé, founded in 1938, and the Federation’s agricultural Extension Service, improved cultivation systems. More efficient spatial patterns were developed that permitted the differentiation of the product and supported its quality. Currently the Land of Coffee in Colombia includes all of the mountain ranges and other mountainous regions of the country, and generates income for over 500,000 coffee farming families.

Colombia still produces exclusively Arabica coffee, and though the country suffered setbacks and lower yields from an outbreak of coffee-leaf rust in the early 2010s, production has fairly bounced back thanks to the development and spread of disease-resistant plants, as well as aggressive treatment and preventative techniques. Colombia is the world’s third largest coffee producer with 12% of the world’s production and is known for its production of high-end Arabica coffee. This puts them behind only Brazil and Vietnam, but in contrast with these two, Colombia grows almost exclusively high-end arabica beans.

 

 

 

 

 

This post uses material from the Wikipedia article Coffee Production in Colombia, which is released under the  Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 4.0